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Gai Jatra


The rice planting has all been done and the resulting lull in the agricultural cycle spawns the Festival Season every year. Last week saw the unique celebration of Gai Jatra, or cow festival, whereby families who lost a member during the past year commemorate the dead.

 

In each of the Valley's three major cities, Patan, Bhaktapur, and Kathmandu, a parade is taken out attended by members of the deceased's family. Each family is supposed to lead a cow through the ancient cities, decorated with coloured powders and cloth. As many of the city dwellers do not possess a cow they will dress up young boys in robes, decorate their faces with humorous moustaches and eyeliner to mimic a cow. Of course they are always adorned with handmade silver jewelry made by the fabled silversmiths of Kathmandu.

 

The run up to Gai Jatra is keenly anticipated by those keen on current events as it is the one time of year when mocking and satirizing the political elite is not only tolerated but encouraged. A plethora of magazines appear on the newsstands a week or so before the festival, featuring outrageous caricatures and stories exposing the foibles of the individuals in power. This not only provides great amusement but also serves as a useful pressure valve to let off some steam.

 

As with most customs in Nepal, this one has an ancient provenance. In the sixteenth century the Queen was bereaved over the loss of her child to a virulent fever. Nothing that the King did could console her, so when Gai Jatra came to remember the dead he hired some satirists and humorists to try distracting the Queen from her grieving. They satirized the nobility of the day and were rewarded with a smile from her highness, the first time she had altered her expression of grief in a year. The custom has been enshrined ever since then.

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